How Can You Make Doll Kaya Floor Shiny Again
48 Hours
Cecilie Bahnsen Makes Her Paris Debut
Last week, the Danish designer presented a collection just as romantic as the urban center her namesake brand was showing in for the first time.
In a white-walled studio in the Third Arrondissement of Paris 2 days before Cecilie Bahnsen'due south fall 2022 runway presentation, the Danish designer is sitting on the concrete floor pawing a Pop Information technology! toy with a co-worker's toddler. The casting for the show — her namesake make's showtime in the French upper-case letter — is underway, and models are walking up and downwards the room, narrowly avoiding Bahnsen and the kid, who is the daughter of the stylist Emelie Johansson. Then Bahnsen turns her attention to a tall adult female with braids who has just entered the room. "Shall we try her in the dress?" she asks her team. They know which one she means: They've been working on it all morning time.
Five minutes later, a hush falls as the French model Kathia Nseke strides in a shiny black jacquard mini with an asymmetrical hem that puffs out like popcorn. "It'due south so curt! Are you happy?" asks Johansson, as Sara Bro-Jorgensen, the brand'south head of design, adjusts drawstrings that make the clothes pucker upwardly even more on 1 side. "It's short but information technology'due south skilful!" says Bahnsen, clapping her hands in delight. Effectually her, all 27 members of her team, who have flown in from Copenhagen to work in this temporary infinite — many of them sporting the label'southward unofficial uniform of a roomy organza apparel worn over a cable-knit sweater and jeans, and with Salomon sneakers — intermission into whoops.
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For a day so charged with apprehension, the overall mood is remarkably relaxed. And then again, much of the hard piece of work is already done: The looks and running social club were edited back in Copenhagen and adhere to the confident and consistent aesthetic codes of the brand, which launched in 2015. Since so, Cecilie Bahnsen has get synonymous with ultrafeminine, voluminous dresses in black, white and sugary shades like powder pink and dusty blue. The 38-year-erstwhile designer likewise favors bows, chaplet and a babe-doll silhouette, as well as quilting and cutouts. She grounds each ornamented look with apartment shoes. In the past, these have included beaded hiking sandals — a collaboration with the Japanese line Suicoke — and chunky rain boots created with the Italian mountaineering manufacturer Diemme. This flavour, Bahnsen is launching her ain neoprene ballerina pumps and boots, inspired by rock-climbing shoes and hand-embellished with acrylic trumpet flowers and Swarovski chaplet.
It's a style that'southward proved more versatile than it sounds. "I always wanted the brand not to be as well precious, fifty-fifty though we put so much honey into what nosotros create," says Bahnsen. "Information technology's well-nigh wearability. Some of the drapes that nosotros took from last season, where the skirts were tucked into the side, came from the manner the girls in the studio tucked them in [to their waistbands] before getting on their bikes." These women have many counterparts in fans of the brand and, afterward 5 years of showing in Copenhagen — and two of digital-only presentations — Bahnsen felt ready for a spot on the Paris Mode Week schedule. "Paris has e'er been a second habitation," she says, reminiscing well-nigh her days as an intern for John Galliano (she also worked at Erdem in London for a time). "Copenhagen is where nosotros found our voice, but taking that to Paris and getting to focus on the romance, the craftsmanship and pushing things creatively — it's something I've always dreamed of doing."
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The morn of the testify, Bahnsen has traded her puffy apparel for a capacious navy skirt, a white T-shirt and a tennis necklace with tiny diamond daisies and an array of wave-shaped rings on loan from her friend the Danish jeweler Sophie Bille Brahe. The sound check is taking identify in the Palais de Tokyo, and "Night Wandering," a 1939 poem past the Danish writer Tove Ditlevsen that Bahnsen had translated into English past Michael Favala Goldman and performed past the Danish experimental musician Frederikke Hoffmeier, also known as Puce Mary, is intoning over the loudspeaker. Copies of the poem's text have been printed on ribbed white paper and left on the three-legged stools that expect their sitters. Bahnsen grew up reading Ditlevsen's poems, and this 1 has a somnolent quality that lends itself to her dreamy, even cloudlike designs. "Going somewhere new, I actually wanted to take a part of home with me," she says.
Every bit the models line up backstage, quietly sipping water from paper cups, the choreographer Marianne Haugli delivers a final-minute pep talk. "Just recollect how extremely emotional this moment is for Cecilie and her team," she says. As if on cue, Bahnsen, who has been twirling her hair anxiously, begins to weep. "Relish it — and fill the room," says Haugli. By at present, other members of the squad are likewise in tears, and information technology'due south infectious. "Models, please don't cry!" yells the makeup creative person Rikke Dengso Jensen. "Nosotros don't have time to redo your mascara!" Below is a pace-past-footstep business relationship of the 48 hours leading up to the evidence.
Mon, February. 28, 5 p.m.
Up Front
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Bahnsen'south designs frequently characteristic ties and cutouts in the back, only this flavor she changed things upwardly. "For me, at that place'due south and then much femininity in the back," she said. "Just now that we're doing track, I thought it would be nice to bring some of it to the forepart."
5:10 p.m.
The Great Argue
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Bahnsen consults with Sara Bro-Jorgensen, the brand's head of design, on whether a wearing apparel requires another layer underneath. "It'south been the debate of the day — with pants or without pants?" Bahnsen said then laughed.
5:15 P.Chiliad.
Play Time
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The stylist Emelie Johansson's young girl contributed to the familial mood in the studio every bit she played with her toy cars while model casting carried on effectually her.
Tuesday, March 1, i p.g.
Upstairs, Downstairs
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On the upper level of the light-filled studio, the sales team took appointments with buyers from the brand'due south 125 wholesale partners, who were reviewing more wearable, everyday versions of the catwalk pieces beingness tried on beneath. The model'southward paw-beaded neoprene pumps were inspired by rock-climbing shoes.
2 p.m.
Books and Blooms
Prototype
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Epitome
With the team taking care of final fittings, Bahnsen headed out to get some fresh air. She wore a raincoat from her ongoing collaboration with Mackintosh. "I just love the craftsmanship of what they do," said Bahnsen. "Its male parent and son [artisans] and all handmade." She ended up at the Yvon Lambert gallery and bookshop, where she found a French-language reprint of "On Weaving," the artist Anni Albers'due south seminal 1965 text almost transitioning from handcrafted to machine-made weaving. Then she passed by a flower stall and reveled in the acidic color of a bunch of mimosas. Her fall collection features similarly vibrant shades of green and cobalt blue, a departure from Bahnsen'southward habitually pared-dorsum palette.
2:36 p.m.
Java Pause
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At Le Progrès, a cafe on rue de Bretagne, Bahnsen took v with a apartment white, her java society of selection. Her habit of absent-minded-mindedly braiding her long hair influenced the hair styles for the models in the bear witness. "We're going to do plaits, a lilliputian bit like how I practice them when I'yard wondering what to exercise!" Bahnsen said. "So, all different sizes of plaits woven with ribbons from the collection."
Wednesday, March two, 1:23 p.g.
Finishing Touches
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Backstage at the Palais de Tokyo show space two-and-a-half hours before the presentation was slated to start, models had their pilus and makeup washed.
3:40 p.chiliad.
Walking the Walk
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Before the rehearsal, the choreographer Marianne Haugli instructed the models to channel ethereal energy. "The chore is waking upwards from a dream that you cannot remember — feeling a little bit dislocated and a bit fragile merely and so potent. Don't only put on your catwalk face up," she said.
3:43 p.m.
Places, Please
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After the rehearsal, guests began filing into the venue, and the models lined up backstage and chatted among themselves. "I usually become to Costa rica," ane of them said of her mail service-style week routine. "I like to surf."
3:58 p.m.
Tied Up in Bows
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Paradigm
Bahnsen ran a lint-roller over a few pieces backstage. "I'm getting butterflies now!" she said, while other members of the design team secured bows on the dresses to make sure they didn't come undone. The show's endmost look was an embroidered wearing apparel in an unexpectedly punchy shade of green.
four:11 p.m.
Garden Party
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The floral patterns featured on some of the looks were fatigued in the Copenhagen studio and embroidered in Italy using a broderie anglaise technique that immune some of the faux petals to pare away from the body. The flaps bobbed gently as the models walked. "They come alive as they're moving, kind of blossoming," explained Bahnsen.
four:12 p.m.
A Few Words
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When Haugli delivered a rousing pep talk, Bahnsen teared upwardly.
iv:27 p.m.
Shining Bright
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As the models strode out onto the runway, Bahnsen reviewed their progress via a monitor backstage. She wore a necklace and rings designed past the Danish jeweler Sophie Bille Brahe, who is a shut friend of hers. "We always support each other," said Bahnsen. "It's a little bit like a practiced-luck charm."
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For the testify finale, models walked out in modest groups of threes and fours before taking their place in front of the photographer'south pit, holding easily and looking out into the audience.
4:41 p.grand.
A Chore Well Done
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The designer steeled herself as she stepped out onto the rail to take her bow. Ordinarily, her family unit would be in the forepart row, only they were dorsum home in Denmark and watching via the livestream. "They're going to have Champagne and dress up as if they were coming to the bear witness," Bahnsen said with a smile. "But I think it'southward probably good that they're not here. My mum gets even more anxious than I do!"
Source: https://www.nytimes.com/2022/03/09/t-magazine/cecilie-bahnsen-paris-fashion.html
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